UPGRADE YOUR FIXTURES. FIX THOSE LEAKS. LOVE YOUR SINK AGAIN.

That constant drip... drip... drip isn't just annoying - it's literally pouring money down the drain. A faucet that drips once per second wastes about 3,000 gallons of water per year. That's roughly $35–$50 added to your water bill for absolutely nothing. Plus, it's usually a sign that something inside the faucet is wearing out. Most often, it's a worn washer, loose handle, or deteriorating O-ring - all fixable issues if you catch them early.

What you can try first: If you're handy, try tightening the handle to see if that stops the drip. If you're comfortable taking things apart, you can replace the washer or O-ring yourself - these parts are inexpensive and available at any hardware store. Just make sure to turn off the water supply under the sink first.

When to call us: If tightening doesn't work or the drip comes back after you've replaced parts, there's likely a bigger issue. The valve seat might be corroded, internal components could be damaged, or you might have the wrong replacement parts for your specific faucet model. We've fixed thousands of dripping faucets across the Metroplex over the past 13 years, and we can usually get it done quickly without replacing the entire fixture. Sometimes it's a 15-minute fix that saves you from months of wasted water and that maddening sound keeping you up at night.

If your faucet is barely trickling when it used to have good flow, it's frustrating - especially when you're trying to fill a pot or rinse dishes. Low water pressure at a single faucet is usually caused by mineral buildup clogging the aerator (that little screen at the tip of your faucet). This is super common across the Metroplex because of our hard water. But if multiple faucets have weak pressure, or cleaning the aerator doesn't help, you could be dealing with something more serious like a supply line issue, a hidden leak, or even corroded pipes restricting water flow.

What you can try first: Unscrew the aerator from the end of your faucet (you can usually do this by hand or with pliers and a rag for grip). Rinse it under water and use an old toothbrush to scrub away any white mineral deposits. Soak it in vinegar for 30 minutes if the buildup is stubborn, then rinse and screw it back on. If that brings your pressure back, you're good to go.

When to call us: If the pressure is still weak after cleaning the aerator, or if multiple faucets in your home have low pressure, give us a call. We'll check your supply lines, test for hidden leaks, and inspect your plumbing system to find the root cause. Sometimes it's a partially closed shut-off valve (easy fix), and sometimes it's corroded pipes or a problem with your pressure regulator. We've been troubleshooting water pressure issues in North Texas homes for 13 years, and we'll get to the bottom of it. Low pressure isn't just annoying - it can be a warning sign of bigger problems, and we'd rather catch those early.

If you open the cabinet under your sink and find standing water or damp towels you threw down last week, don't panic - but don't ignore it either. Under-sink leaks are pretty common, and they usually come from one of a few places: loose connections where the pipes meet, a cracked P-trap (that curved pipe under the drain), worn-out supply line hoses, or a faulty shut-off valve. The tricky part is that even a slow leak can cause serious damage over time - warped cabinets, mold growth, and water damage that spreads to your flooring.

What you can try first: Dry everything off, then run the water and watch closely to see where the leak is coming from. Grab a wrench and gently tighten any visible connections - sometimes they just work loose over time. Check the flexible supply lines (the hoses running to your faucet) for cracks or bulges. If you can spot the source and it's just a loose fitting, tightening it might solve your problem.

When to call us: If you can't find where the water is coming from, if tightening connections doesn't stop the leak, or if you see cracks in the pipes themselves, it's time to call. Under-sink leaks can be deceiving - what looks like a small drip can actually be signaling a failing valve, corroded pipes, or improper connections that need professional attention. We've repaired thousands of under-sink leaks across the Metroplex, and we can usually knock these out quickly before they turn into a bigger (and more expensive) problem. Better to catch it now than to deal with rotted cabinets and mold remediation down the road.

If you have to wrestle with your faucet handle every time you need water - cranking it hard to get it to turn, wiggling it to find the right temperature, or feeling it wobble like it's about to fall off - you know how annoying that gets. A loose handle usually means the mounting screw has come undone or the handle itself is wearing out. A stiff or jammed handle typically points to a worn cartridge inside the faucet, mineral buildup from hard water, or internal parts that have corroded over time. Either way, it shouldn't be a workout just to wash your hands.

What you can try first: Most faucet handles have a small screw hidden under a decorative cap on top. Pop off the cap (usually with a flathead screwdriver or your fingernail), and tighten the screw underneath. If that doesn't fix it, you can remove the handle completely and take a look at the cartridge - it might just need cleaning, or you might see visible damage or mineral buildup. Just turn off the water supply under the sink before you start taking things apart.

When to call us: If tightening the screw doesn't help, if the cartridge looks damaged or you're not sure what you're looking at, or if the handle still sticks after cleaning, give us a call. Faucet cartridges come in dozens of different styles depending on the brand and model, and using the wrong replacement part is one of the most common DIY mistakes we see. Sometimes the cartridge is fine but the valve seat is corroded, or the whole faucet assembly has reached the end of its lifespan. We've replaced and repaired more faucet handles and cartridges than we can count over 13 years in the Metroplex, and we can usually tell you within a few minutes whether it's a simple fix or time for a new faucet. Either way, you shouldn't have to fight with your sink every day.

If your sink wobbles, shifts, or feels like it's going to pull away from the counter when you're washing dishes or leaning against it, that's more than just annoying - it's a problem waiting to get worse. A loose sink puts stress on the plumbing connections underneath, which can eventually lead to leaks. It also breaks the seal between the sink and countertop, allowing water to seep through and damage your cabinets. Over time, that movement can crack the caulk, warp the countertop, or even cause the sink to detach completely. Not something you want happening while you've got a sink full of dishes.

What you can try first: Get under the sink with a flashlight and look for the mounting clips or brackets that hold the sink in place. These are usually metal clips that hook onto the underside of the countertop. If they're loose, try tightening them. If any are missing (this happens more often than you'd think), you can usually find replacements at a hardware store. Also check the caulk or putty seal around the rim of the sink - if it's dried out or cracked, you might need to reapply it to prevent water from getting underneath.

When to call us: If tightening the clips doesn't stabilize the sink, if you can't access the mounting hardware, or if the seal is already compromised and water has been getting under the counter, it's time to bring us in. We'll assess whether the mounting system needs to be reinforced, if the sink needs to be resealed and reinstalled properly, or if there's already water damage that needs addressing. We've reinstalled countless sinks across North Texas over the past 13 years, and we know how to secure them so they stay put. A wobbly sink isn't something to live with - it only gets worse, and the longer you wait, the more expensive the fix becomes.