FAST & TRUSTED TOILET REPAIR, REPLACEMENT & INSTALLATION

A toilet that won't stop running is usually caused by a worn flapper, faulty fill valve, or improperly adjusted float. After 13+ years fixing running toilets across Northeast Texas and DFW, we've found these three parts cause about 90% of the problem.

Quick check: Lift the tank lid and watch what happens. If water keeps trickling into the overflow tube, your float is set too high or your fill valve needs replacing. If you hear water seeping into the bowl, it's likely a deteriorated flapper that's not sealing.

DIY-friendly fix: Flappers are cheap ($8-15) and fairly easy to replace if you're handy. Just turn off the water supply, flush to empty the tank, unhook the old flapper, and snap the new one in place. Make sure you get the right style for your toilet model.

When to call us: If you've replaced the flapper and fill valve and it's still running, there's likely a bigger issue - cracked overflow tube, corroded flush valve, or sediment buildup from our hard Texas water. A running toilet can waste 200+ gallons per day, adding $50-100 to your monthly bill. Our licensed plumbers can diagnose and fix it in one trip, usually in under an hour, with upfront flat-rate pricing and parts backed by our One-Year No Regrets Pledge.

A weak or incomplete flush usually means low water level in the tank, a partially clogged rim jet or siphon tube, or mineral buildup restricting water flow. In our 13+ years serving Northeast Texas and DFW, we see this constantly—especially in areas with hard water over 300 PPM like Quinlan, Rockwall, and parts of Plano.

Quick check: Remove the tank lid and flush. The water should rise quickly and nearly fill the tank (usually to a line marked inside). If it's an inch or more below that line, your fill valve needs adjusting or replacing. Also peek under the rim - those small holes should have strong water flow when you flush. If they're barely trickling, mineral deposits are blocking them.

DIY-friendly fix: You can try adjusting the float to increase tank water level—there's usually a screw or clip adjustment on the fill valve. For minor mineral buildup around the rim jets, a wire hanger and some white vinegar can help clear them. This works best if caught early.

When to call us: If the water level is correct and the rim jets are clear but it still won't flush right, the problem is deeper - possibly a clogged siphon jet at the bottom of the bowl, a cracked flush valve, or the toilet is simply too old and inefficient (pre-1994 models used 3.5+ gallons and often lose flushing power over time). Our licensed plumbers use cameras and hydro jetting when needed to diagnose tough clogs, and we can recommend whether repair or replacement makes more sense. Most fixes take under an hour with upfront flat-rate pricing, backed by our One-Year No Regrets Pledge.

Water around your toilet base usually means one of three things: a failed wax ring seal, loose mounting bolts, or a cracked toilet base. In 13+ years fixing leaks across Northeast Texas and DFW, we've found that wax ring failure is the culprit about 70% of the time - especially in homes with foundation movement from our expansive clay soil.

Quick check: Dry the floor completely, then flush and watch closely. If water seeps out immediately during the flush, it's likely the wax ring. If it appears hours later or only when someone sits on the toilet, you might have a hairline crack in the porcelain base. Also check if the toilet rocks or wobbles - that movement can break the wax seal over time.

DIY caution: You can try gently tightening the two T-bolts at the base (caps on either side), but don't overtighten - you'll crack the porcelain. If that doesn't stop it, do not ignore this leak. Even a small, slow leak can rot your subfloor, damage ceiling joists below, and cost thousands in structural repairs.

When to call us: Wax ring replacement requires pulling the entire toilet, scraping the old seal, inspecting the flange for damage, and reinstalling with proper alignment. If the flange is cracked or corroded (common in older homes), we'll repair or replace that too. Our licensed plumbers have replaced thousands of wax rings in the DFW area and can spot hidden issues like flange problems or subfloor damage before they get worse. Most repairs take 1-2 hours with upfront flat-rate pricing, and every job is backed by our One-Year No Regrets Pledge. Same-day service available.

If you're plunging your toilet more than once a month, something bigger is going on. After clearing thousands of toilet clogs across Northeast Texas and DFW since 2012, we've learned that chronic clogging usually points to one of four issues: partial sewer line blockage, mineral buildup restricting the trapway, a failing low-flow toilet (especially 1990s models), or tree roots invading your drain line.

Quick check: Notice if other drains in your home are slow too—kitchen sink, shower, or floor drains. If yes, the blockage is likely in your main sewer line, not just the toilet. Also check what you're flushing: "flushable" wipes aren't actually flushable and cause about 30% of the repeat clogs we see.

DIY approach: A standard plunger works fine for occasional clogs (make sure you're using a flange plunger designed for toilets, not a sink plunger). Avoid chemical drain cleaners at all costs—they're harsh on pipes, can damage wax seals and gaskets, and don't fix the underlying problem. They just burn through soft clogs temporarily.

When to call us: If you're plunging weekly or even monthly, we need to find out why. Our licensed plumbers use sewer cameras to inspect your drain lines and locate exactly what's causing the blockage—whether it's buildup from our hard Texas water (especially common in Rockwall and Quinlan), a partially collapsed pipe, root intrusion, or a toilet that's just too old and inefficient. We can clear the line with hydro jetting, repair damaged sections, or recommend toilet replacement if that's the real fix. Most diagnoses take under an hour, and we give you upfront flat-rate pricing before any work begins. Every repair is backed by our One-Year No Regrets Pledge.

A toilet that moves even slightly when you sit down isn't just annoying - it's actively breaking the wax seal with every use. In 13+ years stabilizing toilets across Northeast Texas and DFW, we've seen wobbling lead to slow leaks that rot subfloors, especially in homes with foundation shifting from our clay soil or older homes with wooden floor joists.

What causes it: Usually it's one of three things: loose mounting bolts, an uneven floor (common with foundation settlement), or a deteriorated wax ring that's compressed over time. Sometimes it's a cracked toilet flange - the ring that bolts the toilet to the drainpipe - which can't be seen without pulling the toilet.

DIY caution: You can try gently tightening the two closet bolts (T-bolts) under the caps on either side of the base. Turn them just until snug—overtightening will crack the porcelain base and turn a $150 fix into a $400+ toilet replacement. If it still wobbles after light tightening, don't keep cranking on those bolts.

When to call us: If tightening doesn't fix it, or if you see any water around the base, the problem is below what you can see. The flange may be broken, the floor may have rotted and dropped, or the wax ring is already compromised. Our licensed plumbers pull the toilet, inspect the flange and subfloor, shim uneven spots properly, replace the wax ring, and reinstall it level and secure. We've fixed this exact issue thousands of times across Quinlan, Rockwall, Greenville, and throughout DFW. Most repairs take 1-2 hours with upfront flat-rate pricing, backed by our One-Year No Regrets Pledge. Catching it early saves you from major subfloor or ceiling damage later.